It took 40 minutes from ferry port to
Vigeland Park on foot. The method of taking the bus never crossed my mind. Walking was the basic means of transportation during my days in Denmark, but I told my friends I did take the bus, Bus Route “Number 11”, that was what kids from Beijing called walking on foot.
It was the first time we traveled by Norwegian cruise, or a cruise of any kind, so everything was pure excitement on the first night and we didn’t go to bed until almost dawn. This earlier excitement turned into absolute exhaustion after docking in Oslo. We took the cheapest 3-day cruise: it was two days round trip, traveling from Copenhagen to Oslo with one-day, in fact only several hours, for touring Oslo and for achieving the mighty ambitions of sightseeing too many places by Bus Number 11.
“Please,” YQ turned to me and hurried me up: “Walk –F---a—s---t---e---r—laaaaaaaah… , Walk –---a—s---t---e---r——laaaaaaaah…”. That is the typical pronunciation of Cantonese Mandarin. They drag all the vowels and slow the talking speed and add an “aaaa……..” at end of most of what they say.
“How can she be faster if you use this kind of voice?” SG, my Beijing friend, asked impatiently. He was the manager of the three of us, planning the travel route, and managing our shared funds of a shameful amount.
He was right, YQ’s soft little voice, her clumsy Cantonese Mandarin, her way of dragging out vowels, her way of hurrying me up using her usual little soft voice and her “la….” at the end of each sentence: “Please –be ---fa—ster—laaa……..” ,Please –be ---fa—ster—laaa……..” hypnotized me and it sounded like a soft cradlesong in my ear: “—Please ---be—s—l---e---e—p--y—Please –sleep----tight----”
“Let me show you how to do it,” after that hulking SG, “the Beijing Big Man” turned to me and with dart fierce looks of hate, looking belligerently: “Rock King, Be fucking faster!”
I always believe that the Beijing dialect has a special effect as a thunderstorm, adding urgency, authority, power, and indignation in order giving, slogans, rallies and river bank boat-towing. It is an interesting phenomenon that I enjoy to observe, what differences languages are able to make by changing stress, intonation and wording.
SG’s thunderstorm proved my theory right yet again and gave me an immediate body shaking and right away I walked faster!
Once YQ said to me:“Ni Ji Dao Ma?”, that is the Cantonese way to pronounce “Ni Zhi Dao Ma ?”, “Did you know?” in Mandarin.
“Did you know,” YQ said to me: “We Cantonese people like to eat ‘xié.’”
“Xié – ‘shoes’?” I was puzzled: “But why do Cantonese like to eat shoes?”
I heard that the soldiers during the Long March ate shoes, belts, tree barks, or just whatever they could find in wartime for survival. But why, do Cantonese people, the well-known gastronomes LIKE to eat shoes, a surviving necessity?
“No! No! We don’t like to eat ‘xié’ ! We like to eat ‘xié’!” , YQ cried.
“You don’t like to eat shoes but like to eat shoes?”, I was totally lost in this logic.
YQ tried harder: “We don’t like to eat ‘xié’! But we like to eat ‘xiě’!”
She changed to the 3rd tone, not ‘xié’, but ‘xiě’.
“Xiě? Blood? ”, I thought I finally got it: “We Northerners do too.”
Concealed blood is commonly used in Chinese cuisine, such as Pork Blood Spinach Soup, and is eaten to restore our inner energy.
“Ai-ya! Not Blood!” YQ cried and shifted to Danish: “Vi spiser Slanger.”
“Slanger?”—In Chinese it sounds like ‘O Dead Wolf’—“The Snakes? That is what you meant!” I finally got it. This time I finally got it.
“Xié”, shoes, “Xiě”, blood, and “She”, snake, it is too much to demand a Cantonese girl to master all of these minute pronunciation differences in Mandarin.
So that shifting to Danish was the often what we used when I was in Denmark, in order to understand another Chinese girl, my fellow citizen.
Cultural Notes(文化注解):
1). This article was firstly written in English and then rewritten in Chinese.
2). Several attempts of the Cantonese girl YQ's pronunciation of snake, “xié”and “xiě” sound like "shoe" and "blood" in Mandrin Chinese and thus caused my confusion. The correct way pronouncing it, is "She" , in a rising tone.
3).The Danish pronunciation of snake, slanger, sounds like O-dead-wolf in Mandarin Chinese.(注解:丹麦文"蛇"Slanger 的发音近似于中文:死狼啊)。
从下船的地方到雕塑公园大概要步行40是多分钟。坐公共汽车的念头在脑子里竟是一点也没有呢。到哪里都是坐"十一路无轨电车"。
前一晚在大游轮上玩到凌晨三四点才睡,我困得不能举步。
YQ回头温柔地催我:“快一点啦!快一点啦!请走快一点啦”!
“你这样的语气,她怎么能走快呢”?SG不耐烦了。
的确,YQ温柔的广东官话,拖泥带水,又拉长声:
“快......一......点......啦!
快......一......点......啦!
请......走......快......一......点......啦"!
在我的耳朵里面几乎成了催眠曲: “快---点---睡---吧!快---点---睡---吧!”
“你得这样催她才管用,听我的”,然后北京大老爷们儿SG回过头对我,横眉立目,吼了三吼:“王石头!你TM走快点儿!”
我发觉北京话,尤其是北京话的吆喝声,非常适合河边拉纤,是一种有力的号子。果然,我浑身抖了三抖,立刻嗝蹬嗝蹬的有力起来啦!
一次YQ跟我说: “你鸡道(知道)吗?我们广东人系(是)漆(吃) ‘xié’的”。
我奇怪地问: “为什么你们广东人喜欢吃鞋呢”?
“不系啦!不系啦!我们不漆鞋啦!我们漆鞋啦”!
我更困惑了:“怎么你们又不吃鞋,又吃鞋呢?”
逻辑在哪儿啊!我都晕啦!
“我们不漆鞋,我们漆‘xiě’”。
“‘xiě’-----血”?
噢!我明白了: "我们北方人也吃血呀!比如猪血菠菜汤”。
“不系血啦!不系血啦!我们……我们……”, 温柔的YQ温柔的小脸都急红了。
“唉!” YQ叹了口气,换成丹麦文: “Vi spiser Slanger".
“Slanger? ---"死狼啊”!--这下我真的明白了,原来你们 “系七蛇”的啊!
在丹麦的时候,我这个广东话大字不识一个的北京人和YQ这个勉强会费力说点普通话的广东人,我们两个中国女孩之间的沟通,经常是要换成丹麦文,才互相听得懂对方的。